Perched high up on a hill in the Ariège region of southwestern France, a crumbling fairytale château sits against a backdrop of the Pyrenees mountains.
Château de Gudanes was first reintroduced to the modern world when it was purchased in 2013 by the current owners, an Australian mother and daughter duo. When they first began sharing the château online a few years later, it was to document the restoration of this historical property; it was constructed around 1745, but on the grounds of a 13th century fortress. I found their page after studying Renaissance art restoration in Umbria, Italy in the summer of 2016, and followed along ever since.
As their work on the château continued, they began opening their doors to small groups who would participate in the restoration while staying in the rooms that had already been revived. In July 2024, I was lucky enough to spend a week there as a part of their seven nights group trip, during which we restored frescos, took cooking classes, read Poe in the basement, went to markets in small local villages, and had so many memorable meals accompanied by live music. The best part was how authentic its preservation was; 18th century construction quirks meant bats swooping down from the rafters of our bedrooms, shutters banging in the storms, and many, many candles to light the halls. It was a rare kind of travel experience where you’re not just learning about the history of the area, you’re actually living in it. I still remember what it felt like driving away in the early hours in the morning, with that looming, gorgeous thing in the rear view mirror. As the owners said upon our departure, it’s like a vortex the way it pulls you in, so I hope I’m drawn back into its orbit again someday.
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